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	<title>PRUSADJS.CZ &#187; repman</title>
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		<title>Look ma, no WARPING! Heated RepRap print bed</title>
		<link>http://prusadjs.cz/2009/11/look-ma-no-warping-heated-reprap-print-bed/</link>
		<comments>http://prusadjs.cz/2009/11/look-ma-no-warping-heated-reprap-print-bed/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 14:57:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>prusajr</dc:creator>
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		<category><![CDATA[Hacks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[RepRap]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://prusadjs.cz/?p=188</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Since we have RepMan (kind of RepRap) 3D printer I was thinking about printing large objets. Of course you start with small things like minimug. But as you start learning how to get good small prints you&#8217;ll try something bigger &#8230; <a href="http://prusadjs.cz/2009/11/look-ma-no-warping-heated-reprap-print-bed/">Celý příspěvek <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Since we have RepMan (kind of RepRap) 3D printer I was thinking about printing large objets. Of course you start with small things like <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:36">minimug</a>. But as you start learning how to get good small prints you&#8217;ll try something bigger and you will probably see large warping. It&#8217;s caused by different temperatures in the object. Professional machines uses heated print chamber to avoid this, but we can&#8217;t of course build heated champer since the printer is made from plastic or plexyglass. Great compromise is to build heated print bed. I was inspired by <a href="http://pleasantsoftware.com/developer/3d/2009/11/12/canned-heat/">Zaggos work in Pleasant Hardware</a>. But he has MakerBot which has only 10x10cm print bed. RepMan has 4times bigger. I wanted to build my print bed as quick as possible so I used ressistive wire which I have for a while, then some plexyglass and epoxy glue. It build like burger, in three layers 1)Plexyglass 2) ressistive wire + epoxy glue 3) plexyglass. After you do make this you should put it on the straight place, put something heavy and straight on it and leave it for few hours.</p>
<p>[flickr album=72157622837572300 num=5 size=Small]<br />
Don&#8217;t ask me to exact ressistance of the wire etc. I dont know it <img src='http://prusadjs.cz/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />  You just should make sure that whole print bed rig consumes about 45-55 Watts (you can use more for quicker heating, but you can melt the plexy, so be carefull) for this size, for Makerbot should be enough 25-30 Watts.<br />
I&#8217;ve added (dont forget to drill and sand the place for sensor and cable in bottom piece of plexy) temperature sensor which is done by my brother, so I know if it&#8217;s warm enough. BTW even plexyglass expands when it&#8217;s heated, I&#8217;ve had to place some spacers between print bed and lower support plexy contruction. You know, it&#8217;s a prototype, but it works <img src='http://prusadjs.cz/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
<p>I&#8217;ve tried to print when the bed was about 70°C, its quite enough. But higher temperature could be better, I&#8217;ll test it later.</p>
<p><a href="http://prusadjs.cz/wp-content/uploads/x-carriage-lower_1off_export.gcode.png" style="display: block;"><img src="http://prusadjs.cz/wp-content/uploads/x-carriage-lower_1off_export.gcode-530x346.png" alt="Big Mendel part" title="Big Mendel part" width="600" class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-198" /></a></p>
<p>Here you can se the video from my first printing of &#8222;x-carriage-lower_1off&#8220; Mendel part.<br />
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